Oct 12 2009

Tight as a Drum

p-1600-1200-1df5a063-401c-4091-898a-289e6ccb8ae4.jpegThe preparations for the race boat consumed another weekend, and after all of the work was finished (for the day), I had less than two hours of sunlight to seal my own boat from the rain coming tonight.

I know, I know–I should have done this last month, or even the month before, but I have been busy . . . For the last two years, actually.

Anyways, the boat is sealed for the rain. The work is ugly, but overkill,and should accomplish the one goal of keeping me dry.

The storm tonight is expected to be brutal. Gusts of wind up to 65 knots in the central bay.

UPDATE: I beat the rains by 4 hours on this. Too close for comfort, but at least it is done!

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Aug 22 2008

Stove Repair: Homestrand Model 206 Alcohol 2-Burner Stove

One of the items on the long list of todos is to repair the Homestrand Model 206 Alcohol 2-burner stove on the Ericson 29.

After a little productive searching on the Internet, I found a nice company in Brewerton, NY that sells original repair kits.  So, I called them and ordered one–or, two rather  (one for each burner).  They arrived today, in perfect condition with a hand-written note, printed instructions, and a postcard of their boat yard.  So cool!

If you need Homestrand Model 206 (or 209 or other) Alcohol Stove parts, they have them:

ESS-Kay Yards (on the Erie Canal)
Brewerton, NY
By Phone: 315-676-2711
On the Internet: www.ess-kayyards.com

Note: You can order things online–they have a shopping cart and payment processing, but at the time of this writing, it does not use SSL technology–so, your credit card and info goes all over the Internet unencrypted.  They said they are working on it.

I’ll post a tutorial when I am finished rebuilding the stove.

One response so far

Aug 18 2008

Ericson 29: Transom conclusion

After crawling around below the cockpit sole, there was absolutely no evidence of a collision.  Furthermore, there is another Ericson 29 on the hard nearby with the same full-length cracking along the top of the transom.

The material that has actually split is a dark gray with some un-catalyzed fiberglass flakes in it.  Underneath, there is plenty of glass holding things together on the inside edge, but my guess is that the outer edge was stuffed with filler.  This seam across the transom is the only place where the hull-to-deck joint is not bolted together.

I am going to clamp the area together and fill the whole thing with epoxy–allow it to cure and basically glue the whole thing together (there is no worry about the structural integrity here–the transom is sound).

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Aug 18 2008

Project Update: Teak Cabin Hatch Boards Restoral

Stripped and re-finished hatch board

Stripped and re-finished hatch board

I have completed the first board, and I love how it looks.

These boards get quite a bit of use, and as a result, I wanted to use Teak Oil, rather than varnish.  In my mind, it is easier to keep them oiled than it would be to keep them varnished.  With the boards getting used dozens of times a day, the chances are pretty great that varnish would get chipped or marred.  (I am sure my opinions will change after a few seasons of this.)

The board cleaned up really well with just water and a stiff, plastic bristle brush.  I used the Interlux Teak Restorer additionally to get some of the stains out of the wood.  By the time it was dry, the wood was white.

As per the directions on the Interlux Teak Oil, I brushed on a coat after the board was dry, waited until it was dry to touch, and applied a second coat.  I let that dry for the remainder of the day, and honestly, it needed more.  That wood was THIRSTY!

The interior side is perfect.  The exterior side still has a really pronounced grain that is a bit course to the touch.  I am going to hand sand it with 80-grit, then 150-grit sand paper, wipe away the dust, and then re-apply the Interlux Teak Oil.

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Aug 17 2008

Project: Ericson 29 Teak Cabin Hatch Boards Refinish

Hatch boards before they were stripped and refinished

Hatch boards before they were stripped and refinished

This is the BEFORE picture of the Cabin Hatch Boards on the Ericson 29.  They are teak, well-weathered and ready for a refinishing.

I chose Interlux Teak Restorer, and Interlux Teak Oil.  The grain has become a bit pronounced, so I may be doing a bit of sanding later to return them to their previous smoothness.

I’ll post pictures as I go.

One response so far

Aug 14 2008

Ericson 29: Transom repair update

Another guy from the marina (who has an Ericson 27) came over today and we looked at the transom together.  I needed another set of eyes to verify what I was seeing.

The crack across the transom goes nearly all the way across–right along the top.  But, the crack is not in the fiberglass: it appears to be some other material that was used along the top of the transom.  And, whatever that material was, it appears to have sheared from the stress.

The backstay is attached, of course, and definitely holding the transom in-place.  I am not worried about it coming apart.  The next step is to determine where, when, and why this other material was added.  I will be looking for evidence of a collision . . . and this to be part of the repair process.

Tomorrow, it looks like I will be crawling around below decks.

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Aug 13 2008

Ericson 29 Inspection: Split along the Seam of the Transom

Crack along the transom of an Ericson 29

Crack along the transom of an Ericson 29

Upon most accounts, the Ericson 29 is a stoutly-built boat that could handle the Blue-water conditions of cruising.  It will be small, and have a maximum hull-speed of 6.7 knots/hr, but it will be manageable.

The smaller boat might actually be more forgiving in many places.  There are not as many things to break, a smaller boat is easier to maneuver, and has a shorter mast.  It is less helm on the tiller, and the keel is shorter–so, I can get in a little closer to shore.

A longer, heavier boat wouldn’t get tossed around as much in heavier seas, and the extra waterline would mean faster days.  But, the cost of the boat is more, as well as every other thing.

And, I already own the Ericson 29.

There is this nasty little split along the seam of the transom, however (see picture).  It appears as if the top portion of fiberglass did not bond properly to the actual transom.  If it is repairable and does not pose any danger to the structure of the boat, perhaps it is not a big deal.

I am going to have to hire a marine surveyor to tell me if this boat is worth preparing for the voyage, or not . . . .

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Jun 19 2008

Ericson 29: Diving the Bottom

barnacle.jpgIt is TIME to have the bottom cleaned on the Ericson 29 again. In fact, the last time the bottom was cleaned was about 9 months ago. I am actually behind schedule.

The condition of the algae on the bottom actually determines the time more than anything. And, it is definitely time. As seen in the image, there is an entire bustling community of crustaceans living and working on the hull. Not exactly desirable for good hull speed.

I must call the diver to come and clean the bottom of the boat. More importantly, a haul-out and new bottom paint has to happen soon.

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Jun 13 2008

Ericson 29 Specs: Ericson 29 Owner’s Manual

A while back, I found the Ericson 29 Owner’s Manual at the Ericson Owner Association. As an owner of an Ericson 29, and constantly in need of specs and other information, I have only downloaded and provide a link to the Ericson 29 Owner’s Manual.

The Ericson Owner’s Association website has a really nice collection of documentation and specification. Here’s the link:


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May 20 2008

Ericson 29 Todo List

There are quite a few things to do before the Ericson will ready . . . but, that is part of the reason why I purchased the boat.  Overall, it is sturdy boat, but it is going to be my textbook for learning how to work on and repair boats.

The todo list is divided into several categories.  There are things that must be done before she can be sailed, things that are routine maintenance, and things that are upgrades.  Here is the first draft:

Before Sailed Items:

  • bottom wet-sanded and new bottom paint applied
  • prop replaced (it was partly eroded due to worn zincs)
  • motor tune-up and any repair completed
  • anchors inspected, and rode replaced
  • chain plates replaced
  • standing rigging replaced
  • running rigging replaced
  • electrical system inspected, tested, and any repairs completed
  • life-lines replaced

Should be completed:

  • portholes and deck hardware rebedded
  • cabin-top replaced
  • hand-rail replaced
  • winches disassembled, cleaned, and reassembled
  • running rigging replaced
  • docking lines and fenders replaced


  • replace seat cushions
  • purchase additional life vests for guests
  • repair/replace canvas covers
  • add canvas dodger
  • paint top-sides
  • install mast ring at the base of the mast
  • lead all lines aft
  • upgrade main winches and move existing winches to the cabin-top

This is not exactly a short list, but it is worthwhile.  This is a pretty extensive textbook . . . .

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